French Brasserie à la David Shrigley
When it first opened, Sketch was considered one of the most expensive and extravagant restaurants in London. 12 years later many others surpassed the luxury but it is still remarkably exuberant. And now partly remodeled by artist David Shrigley.
Sketch consists of four rooms, including the 2 Michelin star fine dining Lecture Room. For our visit, we opted for the Gallery, currently designed in collaboration with David Shrigley. The room is a delightful overdose of pink: the pink wall, the pink velvet marshmallow dining booths, pink metallic woodworks and copper lamps on each table. The walls are flanked with over 230 original Shrigley drawings, the largest gathering of his work ever exhibited. The staff uniforms are as equally artful, boys in matelot stripes, the classic maid mopping the floor… It feels we entered a Lynch movie set, staged by Wes Anderson.
The menu is equally overwhelming: “Crabmeat, tête de veau, squid with cucumber and green apple water” or the “Homage to David Shrigley: Sashimi of red tuna, frosted grapes, salted daikon, avocado”.
I opted for the lettuce heart as a starter. The plate consisted of a layer of panna cotta with the lettuce and soft apricots sitting on top. This was a great and refreshing mise en bouche for what I had lined up next: the suckling pig and foie gras gateau with black pudding and bok choi. A decadent melty treat which did not deceive. We finished our meal with a selection of sorbets, burnt meringue and mixed marshmallow, a very à propos ending to this sensory overload experience.
The food was great, but without the setting, it would probably have left us wanting for more. Sketch is an experience as a whole, it is over the top and I fell for it. I won’t hesitate to return for another splurge.
9 Conduit Street, Mayfair, London W1S 2XG
+44 (0) 20 7659 4500
Price range: average 45£ before drinks